Then I went to eat at a place with live reggae music and the owner came to speak to me. He's Balinese and very polite, not pushy or strange in any way. He asked how long I was staying in Amed and I said just one night. He pretended to fall out of his chair and said Amed is a place you stay for a week at least! No, a month! I laughed and said I had to be back in Ubud for research by Monday, so I would just go back early and prepare. He offered me a cheaper room at their hotel and a promise for fun the following night- music on the beach and a live band down the way. His friend who owns a dive shop came by to chat too and offered me a dive trip for $25 dollars... to a shipwreck. The Liberty, an American ship sunk by the Japanese in WWII. Underwater manmade things are one of my biggest creepy fears, but $25 for a dive... how could I refuse? What was there, really, to be scared of? I thought maybe I would just stay one more night.
It was one of the greatest descisions of this trip. I met a couple of British folks through the diving and before we even made it in the water, they signed up to come out with us to see live music that night. They were easy and fun and the girl, Vicky and I, had nonstop conversation. The ship was so reclaimed by nature, you could hardly tell it was man made. Lots of coral growing in all directions (including fire coral which I ran into while we were all holding hands. Yow!) Our guide did swing dancing with us on the ocean floor and after we got out, we convinced him to come out as well and we arranged a time to meet in Amed. The Brits and I had lunch together and I agreed to return for dinner. Rested at my new place next to the Rasta bar in a room overlooking the ocean, then headed out for a little motorcycle run. The bar was full of a group of laughing, playing, singing Balinese and two Irish girls. The owner, who had invited me last night, held out a little glass of Arak, the local spirit and asked me to join them. Everyone started waving me over. I had been on the motorbike a lot already... how could I refuse?
We laughed and talked and sang (I played my helmet as a drum) until it was time to go to dinner. I said I would meet them later for music but they wanted us to come join them here first, offering to be motorbike taxis for my British friends and their two travel partners. Sparing the details, we made it to the place with music and danced and laughed and played musical chairs and everyone got to know each other-Irish, English, American and Balinese. The band ended early and one of our hosts invited us to his beach house for a fire and guitars. It was a beautiful place, the full moon rising over the sea. Over 20 people crowded around the fire, singing and talking and jostling each other. I played stones to keep beat. Even an older man came out in his temple garb to sit with us and sing a little.
This morning, I packed to leave, but was sad to do so. As I sat at breakfast, they said I should stay another day. I have to get my research on Monday afternoon and thought it would be best to go early and rest up. We laughed at some silly language translations and I withdrew to stare at the sea and think about my personal quandries. One guy at the end took charge and said I couldn't leave. It wasn't allowed and all of Bali was out of petrol today anyway, using it to pay back a debt to Japan. He pretended to get on the phone with the police and ask them if I could go to Ubud, reporting that they would arrest me if I tried. The Irish girls said I could stay in their room- their beds were plenty big enough and the owner said of course I could stay for free. Two boys started singing me Bob Marely, "Every little ting, is going to be alright... No, woman, no cry...." Promise of a snorkle trip at 2pm to another wreck, then fresh roasted fish, followed by more music on the beach... how could I refuse?
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