Amed

is a long string of little towns, joined by a road that tops and dips through hills along the Northeastern coast of Bali. I came here on suggestion of two French girls I met last night who said, when snorkeling, they saw 1 ft diameter, bright blue starfish. They also said the beach was amazing. It's black sand/ black pebble and lined with boats. I'm not a fan of pebble beaches, but the views from the tops of the hills are incredible. There's the usual harassment of a tourist area and as a single female, I get a lot more of it. Men asking if I want to be with them, lots of motorbikes asking if I want a taxi, the shirtless ones doubling back asking if I'd just want it for free. The usual. I haven't seen a lot of it on this trip until this week. I am trying to remember how to not let it affect me. Next time I go out, I'll just take my own bike and avoid it all.

Speaking of, took my first long motorbike journey today- over three hours! My arse was plenty sore. But it was amazing. I knew I'd love driving a motorcycle and this scooter is a great way to start. It's well balanced and small without too much power. Everyone travels at a pretty slow speeds and are, in fact, excellent drivers. The best way to describe driving in Bali (and probably most of the world) is fluid. Sides of the road, passing lanes, red lights- they are all merely suggestions for the best way to move about. People flow up onto medians, sometimes sidewalks, shoulders, into oncoming traffic, between cars, whatever- and they are all keenly aware of who is around them. You never see someone on a cell phone or fiddling with the radio and, to date, I have neither seen a wreck or heard of one. I'm not the slowest driver on the road anymore but I'm not the fastest either and feel a certain comfort and confidence in moving with my fellow bikes. I do tend to follow the rules though and that's comforting in its own way too. Adding a bandana to deal with the endless exhaust doesn't hurt either. I feel like a bandit on the run!



I can feel the sun going down outside and that's like midnight coming for Cinderella when I am alone. I wish it didn't have to be that way but I am grateful for what can do. Here's to remembering how to be alone again...