Delayed a trip to Sanur and decided I would just have to check out late at my homestay and pay for another night. When he spoke of the apartment before, I pictured something very Balinese- a little dark, cement floors, an Indonesian bathroom. I didn't care if it was just a hammock and somewhere I could lock up my stuff. ANYthing free at this point sounded like a good deal.
It's in an adjoining village becoming populated by expats and absolutely beautiful (albiet fancier than my preference). The apartment is part of a complex with a little garden and some tables for communal or moon pondering moments. It's on the second and third floors, where a carefully laid stone path leads to two glass doors framed in dark wood, swinging wide to a tile floor, intermittenly decorated with the same stone designs.
The stove is a two burner, with the propane tank under the counter, brand new. A sink and, so excited, a water dispenser. I buy at least two big bottles of water a day. With this thing, I could buy a huge, refillable bottle, like we think of Sparklettes, for less than the previous daily water budget AND not keep using plastic that just gets burned in the street. A counter for storing teas and coffee and bowls. It is a work space, primarily, as he works on computers and does photography on the side. There's a bench and a table and a glass case filled with equipment, his work on the walls- 360 views of rice fields cum panoramic shots, showing all 4 directions at once.
The end of the main room has two large windows which swing open to a grass field and the quiet street, palm trees too, of course.
The bathroom is also tile and stone and has hot water and a sitting toilet. There's even toilet paper. And I cannot say how excited I am to use the towel. I kind of miss towels.
There are a lot of friends who live here aleady- a (clean) cat came to visit last night, sharing all kinds of stories and hiding herself in the bookshelf in the bedroom when I tried to shoo her out for bed. Lots of ants of all kinds, incredibly sensitive to any sort of food and happy to join me in the bed. Lots of geckos and bigger lizards, and even a spider with a body the size of a silver dollar, waiting for me downstairs last night. We're getting to know each other and trying to discuss boundaries. I think I'll lose most of those negotiations though.
A wooden ladder leads to the sleep loft, lots of wood, with a ceiling fan and 360 windows. Flowering trees butt their heads up to the glass and greet me in the morning.
He said the bed sags but I slept fine under a sarong for a sheet. Easy. The best part- there are, by some miracle, few chickens in the neighborhood. It may be one of those noises you get used to, the crowing of a cock, but I haven't managed that yet. Usually I wake at 4:30am and every hour after as they sneak into my dreams. I slept until almost 8am today and rolled over to turn on my compuer, completing some work before getting out of bed. Fresh coffee (with milk I can store in the fridge!) and homemade organic meusli, bought at a natural foods store. He also left his mountain bike and I took it into town last night, relishing the burning in my legs as I pumped up the hills. I missed it so much! Am completely alone here (except for the creature companions) and completely spoiled. And really, really blessed. It feels like winning the lottery.
I know I should have stayed in the rich cultural environment, and maybe if both options were free, I would have. When I went back to pack my bags, the family helped and I gave souvenires and asked if it would be okay to return sometimes and talk with them. They said of course and helped me suit up on the bike. It feels as though I made friends and also gained a place to get my work done... and a few creature comforts I sort of missed. Today I hunt down two more contacts and learn how to catch and cook dragonflies from a little girl, then come back to the apartment to write it all up.
Onto the next chapter here, running into the homestretch....
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